Image and Video Capture





Options for all of the following may be set in menu item 'Image and Video Capture'.

The camera's 15 second exposure-time can be overriden, with exposures up to 65 seconds.
For synchronised flash with cameras that do not have a Tv mode, the camera will set the shutter-speed to 1/60 sec.
This is not ideal because if the ambient light is sufficiently bright the synchronisation will be compromised.
You can override the shutter with a faster speed and SDM will set the required delay for the right camera.
After choosing a value that you find gives reliable synch, you may turn override on/off with menu selection 'Override shutter'.
You may also select fast shutter-speeds up to 1/40,000 sec in 1/3EV increments.
The very highest shutter-speeds will not attain the stated value, nevertheless they have been used by scientists to successfully capture images of plasma discharge.
Even when overriden, the Canon-displayed shutter-speed will be limited to the range of 'official' values.
Be aware that by the time the shutter-speed is overriden, the camera has already determined the exposure and will not be aware of the override value.
It is generally more useful when using flash.
The aperture may be overriden up to 2EV units past the normal smallest aperture.

In continuous-shooting mode you may acquire a sequence of images (stack) with focus changeing from near to far.
Set the required focus-step in 'Image-stack step-size'.
TX1 users should ensure that Focus Lock is set BEFORE entering an override value !

If your camera has an aperture diaphragm, that may also be overriden in the above menu.
The following cameras do not have an aperture diaphragm :-

Instead, they have a -3 stop neutral density (ND) filter that is swung in or out of position.
(the TX1 and G7 have a ND filter and a diaphragm).

When you half-press the shutter and an aperture of f8 is indicated on such cameras, it really means that the ND filter will be swung into position, it has no effect on depth-of-field.
When you zoom the lens, the aperture value will change for optical reasons only, not because of a physical aperture.
Cameras with a ND filter will have an items 'ND filter state' and 'ND constant exposure' added (not shown) to the above menu.
You can choose 'Off', 'In' or 'Out'.
'Off' = the camera decides to swing filter in or out.
'In' = the filter will be swung into position.
'Out' = the filter will be prevented from swinging in.
If you prevent the camera swinging the filter into position in bright light, 'ND Constant Exposure' mode will set a faster shutter-speed to keep the exposure correct.
If you prevent the camera swinging the filter out of position in dim light, 'ND Constant Exposure' mode will set a slower shutter-speed to keep the exposure correct.
If you choose the 'ND constant exposure' option, these overrides will not make the image lighter or darker but will set a faster or slower shutter-speed than otherwise possible.
For example, kite aerial photographers (KAP's) often work in bright light where the camera will swing-in the filter and set a suitable shutter-speed.
By forcing the ND filter out, the shutter-speed will be set 8x faster by SDM.

To disable all of the above overrides, half-press + FuncSet button in normal (not <ALT>) mode.

'SPORTS' Synchronised-shooting mode

In this mode you use the viewfinder to frame the action and press-and-release the switch almost twice a second.
Although you cannot see both blue LED's in the waiting-state for synchronised shooting, the required delay becomes instinctive with a little practice.

From the Canon function menu, select continuous-shooting mode.
Nearly all the supported cameras have this mode, but a few may not (such as the A460).
This is a fast-action mode, not a bracketing mode, so in the SDM menu 'Image and Video Capture' set Tv bracketing value to "Off" and bracketing-type to either "lighter","darker" or "alternating".
RICOH switch: Full-press to light the 'Ready' blue LED and then half-presses to capture the image. Full-press to end the sequence or let it time-out.

USB switch: Fully-press to light the 'Ready' blue LED and then brief release-and-press to capture each image. End sequence by allowing to time-out.

Custom timer bracketing mode

This mode allows you to easily gather a number of images at different exposures, typically for high dynamic-range (HDR) applications.
If 'Custom timer synch' mode (in the 'Bracketing/Overrides' submenu shown above), is disabled a single press-and-release is all that is required to initiate the capture-sequence.
This mode does not provide precision synchronised shooting, but for the intended subject matter this is rarely a concern.
If 'Custom timer synch' mode is enabled, you have to press-and-release for each shot but they are precision synchronised.
Be aware that foliage, vegetation, trees and the like may move in the slightest breeze and exposure-merging such images will provide unsharp results in addition to any synchronisation ghosting.
From the Canon function menu, select custom timer and set the number of exposures required.
This will normally be an odd number for symmetrical-bracketing each side of normal exposure.
On cameras that allow you to manually set the shutter-speed, you may wish to start with the shortest exposure that captures the strongest highlight without burning-out and then increase exposure each step to gradually capture the shadow details.
Or, you could do it the other way around and start with an exposure long enough to capture shadow detail and then reduce exposure each step.
Count the number of 1/3EV steps that cover the range and divide them over the number of images.
e.g. 3EV range = nine 1/3EV units so that could be nine exposures of 1/3EV or five exposures of 2/3EV.
Set the Tv bracketing value to whatever EV is required and bracketing type to 'lighter' or 'darker'.
RICOH switch: Fully press for blue LED 'Ready' light and then a single half-press to start the sequence.
USB switch: Press until blue LED lights and then release.

Continuous-shooting bracketing mode

In continuous-shooting mode it is also possible to acquire a series of images at different shutter-speeds.
This also does not provide precision synchronised shooting.
Unlike Custom timer bracketing mode, the exposures alternate each side of the starting exposure, progressively increasing and decreasing.
From the Canon function menu, select continuous-shooting mode.
Set Tv bracketing value to whatever EV is required.
Set bracketing type to the total number of exposures required, up to a maximum of nineteen.
The maximum would give you a normal exposure, nine progressively lighter and nine progressively darker.
RICOH switch: Quickly full-press for blue LED 'Ready' light and then half-press (or a longer full-press) to start.
USB switch: A long press and release starts the sequence.

High dynamic-range subjects

Creating HDR images from your bracketed exposures can be done in a number of ways well-documented on the web.
Exposure-fusion is an alternative method that does not require HDR images and tone-mapping.
A free programme to do this is 'Enfuse' which is included in the Hugin download.
After installation, create a shortcut to it on your desktop.



Take the card from your camera, insert into card-reader, multi-select all the bracketed exposures that you wish to use and drag onto the shortcut.
An exposure-merged image will be created on the card.

Time-lapse Imaging

Time-lapse sequences may be captured by using a timelapse script.
Although it is possible to start the scripts at the same time using the USB remote, it is assumed that over time the synch will deteriorate.
It is better to use an inexpensive microcontroller (such as PICAXE) to 'press the button' of the remote switch at suitable intervals.
This will ensure good synch.
For fast capture rates (about once a second), set the camera to continuous-shooting mode and do not save RAW images.

Timer delay Imaging

A simple way of doing this is to hold-down the switch button with an elastic band or enable synch delay and set coarse delay value to less than 100.
Either way, a photo will be taken after a maximum of ten seconds.

Remote Control Imaging

If using the output of a radio or infrared receiver to trigger a pair of cameras, remember that synch will be compromised if you use two receivers.
It may be better to use a single receiver and a long (for hypers) length of shielded cable.

Focused-distance override

It is possible to override the camera's focus setting and force it to a manually-entered distance, the hyperfocal distance, infinity or an 'optimum focus' position calculated for particular near/far distances and aperture.
For the following cameras, this only works when you have set 'Manual Focus' mode on the camera :-
These cameras do not have manual-focus but the auto-focus setting can be overriden by SDM:-
These cameras have manual-focus and may be overriden in both manual and auto-focus modes :-
Disable overrides with half-press + right arrow and in the stereo menu, choose the required 'Focus Mode' from INF, HYP,MAN or RF.
INF corresponds to a focus setting of 65 metres, HYP is hyperfocal distance calculated from current focal-length and aperture and MAN is a value that you enter in menu item 'Stereo/Set focused distance'.
Shutter half-press may be required to update the hyperfocal value after zooming.
'RF' is a value entered in ALT mode into certain OSD's.
For the rangefinder OSD's, it is the optimum-focus position calculated from the entered near and far distances.
You should check that the chosen aperture is sufficient to include the near and far points in the depth-of-field.
'RF' is also used to store the value for the 'Focus Test' OSD, half-press shutter and MENU to record that distance setting.
Because half-press is used in ALT mode to record focused-distance it is inhibited from forcing-focus.
The OSD should be hidden (press FuncSet) and 'Focus override' enabled in the above menu.
Exit <ALT> mode, half-press + right button to enable overrides and you should see INF, HYP, MAN or RF displayed if you are in a shooting mode that allows focus-override.
Simply half or full-press the shutter button or operate the USB switch to force focus to the required setting.
Remember, the depth-of-field of small-sensor cameras is so great that it can be difficult to detect focus-changes.
It is easier to see at maximum telephoto and close-up.
At wide-angle setting and with the lens at minimum aperture, hyperfocal distance can theoretically be as near as just over one metre.
Nevertheless, if you force focus to that distance infinity is certainly not in focus.
You can see how hyperfocal distance changes with focal length and aperture by displaying OSD 'Focus Settings'.


Focus-bracketing for extended depth-of-field Image Stacks

As stated above, the depth-of-field of small-sensor cameras is great and only becomes an issue at telephoto and/or macro settings.
In continuous-shooting or custom timer mode, you can make a series of exposures at different focus (subject distance) settings.
Set the desired 'Focus step-size' in the above menu.
'DB' (distance bracketing) will be displayed on the screen if you are in a valid mode for forcing focus and shooting mode is continuous or custom timer.
If so, prefocus on the nearest subject, press the button to start the sequence and release when finished.
An easier method is to set the focus step-size to -1.
With this setting, SDM calculates the varying step-size for each image and sounds a 'beep' when infinity focus is reached.
A valid shooting-mode is indicated by 'DBA' (distance-bracketing automatic) on the display.

Bracketing modes are NOT disabled with half-press + right button.

Hot Pixel Removal

See details at the bottom of this page.

Video mode



In video mode, you can choose either constant bitrate or constant quality.
When the bitrate is constant, the quality (compression) will vary with scene detail.
The camera default-setting is about 70 to 75.
With constant quality, the more detail in the scene the greater the bitrate and the larger the file.
The camera default setting is 1x.

It is recommended that high-speed memory cards (such as SanDisk Extreme III)be used.
Further details in the WIKI.

The TX1 and 'S' series cameras have a separate button for video mode but these can still be started with the remote switch.
To enter the Rec control mode, push the Movie Button for a short time (less than 0.5Sec), the blue <ALT> LED will light.
(If you push the Movie Button for more than 0.5Sec, the camera will start normal movie recording).
In the Rec control mode, when you press/release the remote switch, the camera starts recording, exits the Rec control mode and the blue <ALT> LED turns off.
To stop movie recording, re-enter the Rec control mode by briefly pressing the movie button and then press/release the remote switch.(or push the Movie button for longer than 0.5Sec.).

There is a menu option that enables optical-zooming on some cameras and while zooming the sound is automatically muted.



The above OSD provides useful information for video that may not normally be available.
Initially, the ISO value will be zero so change to a non-video mode and half-press the shutter to 'unfreeze' this feature.
Switch back to video mode.
At low light levels, aperture will be fully open (or ND filter will be in out position), ISO will be about 280 (grainy images) and shutter-speed 1/30 sec.
As light level increases, the ISO will fall to lowest value, typically 50.
After that, the shutter-speed increases to 1/60 sec and aperture starts to 'close'.
In very bright light the shutter speed will increase further.
This could cause jerkiness when panning as there is no 'motion blur', so you may consider fitting an external ND filter if your camera can accomodate one.
(in an extreme case of pointing camera, in movie mode, at a light-bulb, a shutter-speed of 1/1000 sec, 25 ISO and fully-closed aperture was indicated).